What I did in Hanoi

At the end of January/ beginning of February I had my last vacation of the school year before I returned to the U.S. My friends and I had a lengthy discussion about where we should visit, but a plane ticket to Hanoi, Vietnam was too cheap to pass up. So it became our destination, and it honestly surprised me because I didn’t think I’d love it as much as I did. The trip was way too short, and I know now that I definitely want to return sometime in the future. Out of everywhere I’ve travelled in Asia, so far Hanoi is the most different, but quite charming. Here are the activities and spots I’d recommend to anyone wanting to venture to Hanoi.

I believe it’s mandatory to go on a food tour if you head to a foreign city. Tour guides are friendly and tend to be sensitive to food allergies or restrictions. I have enjoyed every food tour I signed up for, but they can be hit or miss. The Secret Food Tours itinerary, however, was highly appealing, and only fell short in one area: the banh mis. My travel mates and I agreed that the banh mis were too sweet, and not the best display of flavors a banh mi usually has to offer. I LOVE banh mis. I’d probably go as far as say they are one of my favorite sandwiches, but that means I have high standards for them. Fortunately, later on we found some banh mis up to snuff at Hoi An Bami Bread.

Food/drinks from this food tour:

papaya and dried meat salad

pho

banh cuon (meat stuffed rice pancakes)

bun cha

banh mi

egg coffee- LIFE CHANGING

bia hoi (street beer. Super cheap, super sketchy, super awesome)

Located in the Old Quarter, Ngoc Son Temple offers a slice of peace from the bustling city. There is a story that accompanies its origins which recounts a legend of an emperor who was gifted a magical sword to defeat the Chinese Ming Dynasty invasion. Once defeated, the emperor returned the sword to the lake, which prompted the return of a Golden Turtle God (for more information check the link above). A pretty neat backstory if you ask me.

*There is a small fee to get into the temple grounds. *

If you are interested in experiencing the traditional Vietnamese art form of water puppets, the Thang Long Theater is a popular destination. A show is one hour and comprised of several short stories. Live music and some singing or exposition in Vietnamese accompanies each story. It’s kind of funny, but if you aren’t familiar with the stories, then they can be hard to follow. The admission is roughly $4.50 (about 104,000VND).

Hitting up a jazz club has been on my itinerary for the last few vacations. It’s another way to relax while getting a feel for the city you’re visiting. The classically warm beats of jazz music are welcoming no matter where you are in the world. The music here was great, and there are plenty of alcoholic drinks to choose from if that’s what you like. I don’t remember seeing a menu for food, although we did get some cheese and nuts, but I am not sure it was worth it. To sit back and enjoy the music I think the staff expects you to order something though, otherwise there is no admission price.

Live music starts after 21:00*

Train street is a popular destination for tourists, but there actually isn’t a whole lot to do except be impressed by how close the buildings bordering the tracks are. To be fair, we found a cafe with egg coffee <3 and some banh mis. Some of the walls of businesses are brightly painted, which makes for great photo opportunities. A train does in fact run through this area, which means you’ll have to plaster yourself to a wall so as to not get hit. Since train street is really in more than one location, I can’t pinpoint an exact time for when the train comes through any given area.

If you want to go inside the actual mausoleum, it is open from 7:30-11:00AM. After that you are free to tour the grounds but not allowed inside. If you decide to enter, you must dress modestly, covering your shoulders and knees. I also hear that the line can get pretty long, so plan accordingly. There is also a security checkpoint for any bags you have on you whether you are touring inside or outside. The best part though, it’s free! We did not make it in time to see inside, but I’m sure it would have been really interesting. Oh, and this is the actual place where Ho Chi Minh himself is buried.

Pretty much on the same green space as Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, this small temple is worth checking out if you are already at the Mausoleum. There are some comical drawings illustrating what happens if you commit different sins. Sadly, I don’t have any photos of them. If you enjoy exploring temple grounds (like me), just want to take a quiet walk, do some light shopping, or simply admire the architecture, you can do all of those things right here! *Since it is a temple though, going inside buildings requires you to cover legs and possibly shoulders.

Inside this French architectural building is a diverse collection of Vietnamese art. It houses ancient to modern pieces ranging from statues to paintings. I’ve included my favorite pieces right here, which happen to be paintings because I am a painter myself. What struck me with some of the pieces from the 20th century was the liberal use of the color red. Red carries a lot of weight, often becoming a symbol or strategic choice because of its bold hue. Vietnam was and still is a communist state, so I inferred that this could be the reason for the color choice. But it can also signify strength, passion, and anger (among other things), creating an intense dichotomy with the more serene subject matters.

I would highly recommend this museum, as I find its diversity and subject matter intriguing from an artist’s perspective. Of course, it’s for everyone, and there is a lovely cafe/gift shop right on the premises as well.

Cost: 40,000VND (USD$1.70)

Hours: 8:30-17:00

Amidst the traffic and lively city is The Temple of Literature: A peaceful reprieve from an exciting trip. Open from 7:30-18:00, and only about USD$1 (10,000VND) to get inside, it’s well worth a visit if you’ve already traversed to The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum or the National Fine Arts Museum. Once a prodigious university for scholars, this significant cultural landmark is rich with Vietnamese history. The Temple of Literature is dedicated to Confucius himself, and has become a memorial to learning. Grab a book or some homework and go check it out!

The Lotte Center is a multipurpose building with an observation deck on the 65th floor. If you like tall buildings and seeing the city from a bird’s eye view, this is a great place to do so. It’s US$10 (VND230,000*) normally, but from 8:30-10:30AM and 22:00-23:00 the cost is only US$5. When we made it to the top the extent of pollution was apparent from the haze spread over the buildings. Still, it’s worth a breather from the bustling Old Quarter (you’ll need to take a cab to get there). Also, there are two areas with glass floors, which is currently trendy. Just be sure to take off your shoes.

*Price is approximate

KL: Things to know

I’ve taken too long of a hiatus from blogging, so I’d like to come back with some tips and helpful information if you ever decide to visit Kuala Lumpur (you really should).

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  1. Grab Taxi is a godsend. Download the app and link your credit card for easy access to all areas of the city and outside the city. I don’t recommend trying to use the public transport system so much. I’ve lived in Tokyo, and the KL train/metro map had me like whaaaaaaat? Plus the trains aren’t always punctual.

  2. Have small bills. I’m just going to point out that Malaysia is pretty cheap if you are used to USD. Even exchanging yen to RM (Malaysian ringgit) is a good deal. So having smaller bills to pay for things, such as the train tokens, is handy. If you decide to never use the train because of point #1, then smaller bills may prove useful when paying for street food, and shopping in markets.

  3. You must cover your legs at the Batu caves if you are a woman. When visiting mosques, it’s maybe obvious that you should dress appropriately. But when visiting this Sacred Hindu site, please show respect by covering your legs, or borrowing a scarf there for a few RM.

  4. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted. Many countries I’ve traveled to in Asia seem to prefer cash, but I think credit and debit cards are becoming more acceptable.

  5. Don’t drink the tap water. We bought bottled water, but brushed our teeth with the faucet water and were fine. However, I think I also had ice in a drink at a hawker center and once again never felt ill. To be safe, bottled water is the way to go.

  6. Pick up a SIM at the airport. It’s cheap and the employees set it up for you. We used DiGi.

  7. No visa is required if you have a U.S. passport. But double check if you are a citizen from elsewhere. I think most countries can visit visa-free.

What I did in Kuala Lumpur

Just barely two weeks after Busan I'm already packing my bags and sitting on a plane headed towards my next adventure. This time I chose a farther destination, but it was a place I'd heard a lot of good things about, so I guess now I can check it off my list of 2018 travel goals. Kuala Lumpur (KL) was a blast, and I learned quite a bit while I was there. 

But first, let's talk about what I did while I was in this beautiful, diverse city. 

Malaysia is actually a primarily Islamic country, so I made sure to visit some mosques in the city. While both mosques were beautiful, I think I liked the aesthetic of Jamek Mosque a little more. The site had more trees and plants, as well as fountains. Plus the overall design of the dome, minarets, and prayer hall felt very inviting and artistic. The National Mosque was much bigger and very open, allowing people to comfortably walk around the complex. We had a long discussion with a woman originally from Australia who told us about Islam and its beliefs. It was wonderful to learn about such a beautiful religion and feel welcomed into these places of worship. 

Of course, as with visiting any religious site, it's important to dress modestly whether you are a male or female. Women should wear head scarves and make sure their arms and legs are fully covered. Men should wear pants or shorts that stop below the knee. Because Malaysia is generally pretty hot, both mosques provide coverings for people who are not dressed appropriately for the visit. Also, visiting these mosques was free, so I would highly recommend making this a part of your trip should you visit KL. Also, do be aware that tourists are not allowed in during prayer times and you should schedule your visit in the late morning or late afternoon (at least that's what we did). 

Food Tour

Food tours are a great way to try local specialties or foods you might generally not try on your own. For several trips I've taken (but not yet talked about on the blog) I've booked tours through Trip Advisor. It's pretty easy to use and I've had great experiences so far. This particular food tour was a bit unusual because we happened to book it the exact evening of the Ghost Festival parade. According to our guide, this parade happens ONCE a year. And he's only seen it one time. He insisted that we were extremely lucky to be witnessing it, and I did not doubt him. The parade was wild! 

This Buddhist and Taoist festival celebrates the dead and deceased ancestors, which are believed to visit the living on the 15th day of the seventh month. Our guide said the gates of hell are open for a month as well. The parade had dragons, lions, Chinese deities, possessed men, men with large poles shoved through their cheeks, and even cows! It was loud and colorful, and an unforgettable experience. 

Oh and the actual food tour was also great. Our tour guide was very knowledgable about the city, and Chinese culture. Plus he was super interesting! We ate durian, dim sum, putu piring, satay, pineapple with chili flakes, baked bbq buns, drank fresh limeade, and ate a dessert called roti tissue. The durian was gross, but everything else was delicious!

Near the National Mosque is a giant green area with gardens and a bird park. The plan was to go to the bird park and the botanical garden, but the bird park took a few hours, and we were also wanting to go to the mosque. It would be totally possible to do the gardens and the park though if you start your day earlier than we did. There are many points of interest just within the area, so it might be better to split the activities over the course of two days. Most of the attractions close at 6pm, but the botanical garden is open until 8pm. Oh, and the planetarium is closed on Mondays. 

The bird park was neat, with exotic birds from around the world roaming the park, or behind giant cages. You can even pay a small fee to feed the parrots. Except one of them was more interested in eating my hair...

 

This time around the museum of choice was an Islamic arts museum. I make it a priority to visit art or historical museums on any of the trips I take, and this one was actually chosen by one of my friends. I have always admired Islamic art and respected that it never includes images of Allah or God in any religious paintings. The intricate patterns and calligraphy speak volumes on their own while displaying exquisite craftsmanship. Plus, the colors!! 

This museum was much bigger than I expected, and has an array of art throughout history and across cultures. The first floor has impressive models of many famous mosques around the world. Prepare to spend a few hours here, and a modest entrance fee.

Open: 10:00-18:00

Batu Caves

The Batu Caves were actually not initially on the itinerary, but my friends really wanted to go. I'd heard mixed reviews about them, one namely being that it was a tourist trap. However, I'm glad that we ended up going. The Hindu temple at the foot of the caves was brilliantly painted to match the rainbow stairs. In fact, the temple (I think it was the Ganesh Temple) was much more interesting than the caves in my opinion. While it was fun climbing the stairs and passing by all the adorable monkeys, and the caves themselves were nice, the best part of the trip was witnessing my friend get robbed by a monkey. 

On our way down there is actually an entrance to something called "The Dark Cave", but you have to pay to get in. We peeked at the dead specimens in jars by the entrance and decided against forking out the cash. On the stairwell leading back towards the rainbow stairs a monkey caught my friend's attention. It was eyeing her with interest so she took a picture of it. As soon as she turned around it snatched the bag she was carrying with the souvenir she'd just bought and darted up a tree branch. Of course, she screamed and was in complete shock as she watched the monkey tear open the box with her $6 statue of Murigan inside. Realizing it wasn't edible, the monkey begrudgingly hurled it over the staircase from its tree branch perch. 

The box and the bag were goners, sent the the bottom of a waterfall, but the statue survived with only some dents and scratched paint. Another tourist picked it up, (luckily avoiding the wrath of flying statues) and returned it to my friend, who at this point was no longer regretting buying the stupid thing because it now has a hilarious story behind it. 

The lesson here is to watch out for thieving monkeys. Don't carry anything in your hand unless you regretted buying it and don't care to see it again. And always keep an eye on your purse. That's just good sense. But go to the Caves because they are actually pretty cool. 

Thean Hou Temple

Speaking of cool, right after the caves we visited this Chinese temple. My schooling in Eastern religions had me believing this was a Buddhist temple, but I think it was actually Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucianist. It was awesome! The colors and detail are insane, and I especially liked the numerous dragon/phoenix motifs adorning the architecture. After perusing make sure to eat some dragon's beard candy down below the temple. It sounds like drugs, but it's not. 

Petronas Twin Towers

Okay so before I say anything else, I advise you to buy tickets in advance for whichever day you plan to go. The first time we went tickets were sold out for like two days, so we reserved some online since going up the towers was something my buddies really wanted to do. It costs 80RM ($20) which is about as much as I expected a famous tower tour to cost. I don't discourage it by any means. It's a nice view, and you can learn some trivia about the towers at the top. Of course you can also read about them for free online. Apparently their design is inspired by Islamic art patterns. Oh, and they are the tallest twin towers in the world, so that's kinda cool!

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If you like knock off brand names and being hassled by shady store owners, then this is the perfect place to shop. Really you can buy like five different things from the long line of stalls, which are small and very close together, but why not try out haggling and maybe getting an authentic coach purse (or is it?)? I bought a t-shirt and a dress, but decided against a Rolex. Of course I'm being a bit facetious, however it's somewhere you should go to experience a night market and pick up souvenirs. Happy shopping! 

KL Forest Eco Park

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This tiny tropical rainforest is situated in the heart of the big city. And yes, it rained while we were there. It's possible to walk the trails on the ground or make your way through the tree tops via the canopy walk. It's a nice (and steamy) park, but it definitely wasn't a highlight of the trip. Again, I'd recommend the Botanical gardens and parks over by the National Mosque if you need a nature fix. 

No Black Tie Jazz Bar

The lighting in the jazz club was very dim so I don't have any good pictures, but I have good memories! The small venue felt very intimate and exclusive, and the drinks were excellent. We did not order food, but I was tempted because it all looked delicious. I'd recommend buying tickets in advance, that way you can choose which event you'd like to attend, plus you're guaranteed a seat. Our food tour guide actually recommended this place to us, so I felt confident that it was a good choice before we even went there. If you like jazz and sipping on cocktails, I'd say this place is a must visit in KL!

Busan and Traveling: Things to Know

Traveling is all about learning– Learning from mistakes, learning how to get around, and learning about a new culture– to name a few. The freedom that comes with traveling is exhilarating and eye opening. It's overwhelming, and scary, but so rewarding. Even bad trips give you perspective and teach you how to be flexible and more vigilant. 

With that being said, traveling to places vastly different from your own can be daunting, so I want to share my own tips and advice for the various places I've been to. While Busan is still fresh in my mind, here are some tidbits to help you prepare.

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1. Some bathrooms don't have toilet paper. I saw a vending machine outside one bathroom that sold tissues, but buying a pack at a convenience store is maybe a better deal. To be safe, carry around tissues for a multitude of uses.

2. Most bathrooms have soap, but carrying around hand sanitizer isn't a bad idea. I don't leave home without it, but I'm also a slight germaphobe. 

3. Expect a lot of food when you go to a restaurant. I noticed that before our meal we'd be served small appetizers at no extra cost. But the meal itself was usually pretty big as well. Plus, food was pretty cheap compared to the quantity. We ate a five course meal for around $27!

4. Pick up a metro and tourist map at the airport, or International Ferry Terminal. It sounds boring and very against a free-spirited mindset, but I found my guide map EXTREMELY helpful. It not only had the metro system, but popular destinations and how to get there. You can save a lot of time if you already know where you're going, and can also get a sense of where things are in relation to each other.  So I would highly recommend swiping some pamphlets to refer to during your trip no matter where you visit. 

5. Pick up a cheap SIM card when you arrive. For some reason I had trouble finding information about pocket routers or SIM cards for traveling in Korea, so here is a website to get you started. There is a service counter at the International Ferry Terminal that sells plans for wifi eggs and SIM cards, but they were a bit pricy. I would recommend going to a place that sells SIM cards for a certain number of days, which ended up being cheaper. There are shops in Chinatown near Busan station, and in the Seomyeon underground shopping mall. Another thing to note is that South Korea actually has really accessible wifi throughout the major cities. You may choose to forego the other options and jump on wifi in shops. 

6. Tap water is safe to drink. My friend was so thirsty she even drank from a random faucet attached to someone's house in Gamcheon Culture Village. She was fine, but I don't know if I'd recommend that. 

7. You need a specific plug in South Korea. If you are a frequent traveler it might be a good idea to buy a travel adapter. Converters are different, as they convert voltage so you don't fry your phone. Adapters make it so you can actually plug your phone into the outlet. This is something I didn't always think about, so give yourself peace of mind with the purchase of a single multi-functional gadget. 

What I did in Busan

This year for my summer vacation I took a trip to Busan, South Korea. Instead of air travel, my friend and I wanted to be adventurous, so we took a Panstar cruise from Osaka to Busan. Was it luxurious? Probably not to most people, but it was comfortable and so much better than being crammed into an airplane. The best part (besides the complimentary dinner buffet) was that it was affordable. If you're tired of taking planes everywhere and want a change of pace, I would definitely recommend looking into a cruise. 

About two years ago I visited Seoul, and I think I prefer Busan to the capital city. To me, Busan was a perfect balance of city and nature. It supports the beach-bum and surfer lifestyle, offers delectable seafood, and is (of course) a shopping paradise. My friend and I also stayed in an airbnb with a host that was very accommodating and helpful whenever we had questions. So it was a lovely trip overall, and I can't recommend this city enough to anyone who wants to visit South Korea. And without further ado, here is what I did in Busan.

 

 

Gamcheon Culture Village

I'll start by saying that this was probably my favorite experience in Busan. These are actually peoples' houses, painted in bright colors to attract tourists. You can weave through alleyways and get lost (like us) as you wind through the residents' property. Small museums, restaurants, and cafes exist in certain areas to fuel you after so much walking. There is a map to help guide those who want to take the road more traveled, and in this case I would recommend it for a time if you want to see some beautiful street art and buy souvenirs. Of course, getting lost amongst the whimsical buildings is also pretty charming. 

 
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There are several beaches to choose from, but I am pretty sure Haeundae beach is the most popular. The skyline to beach ratio churns out some pretty stunning photos, and the lifeguards make sure to churn out some decent waves from their jet skis. While a bit crowded, this beach is exceptionally clean. You can also rent inner-tubes or a beach umbrella/lounge chair combo. The umbrella/chair combo was around 24000 KRW (about $21) for however long you decided to stay at the beach. After swimming and some much needed sun, we got tacos, nachos, and cocktails at The Fuzzy Navel. ;)

 
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I always try to visit an art museum when I travel. Unfortunately, this one was a bit underwhelming in my opinion, albeit, a wonderful dedication to a single artist. There was only one exhibit going on for a modern artist named Kim Jongsik (1918-1988). I have never heard of him, but his paintings were very abstract or impressionist pieces that mostly illustrated nature. I liked his works overall, and a few especially stood out to me because of his color choice and interesting use of mark. His sketches were also lovely, and I was especially fond of his figure drawings. 

The admission to this museum is free, which is a bonus. Also, a giant polka dot pumpkin sculpture by Yayoi Kusama greeted us on the first floor. 

 

Wow this Buddhist temple was spectacular. The bright colors of the buildings pop against the backdrop of sea. There are pathways winding up and down, leading to statues of Bodhisattvas. As you walk across the bridge you can try throwing coins into the giant pots below. I gathered that if your coin made it into the pot then it would bring good fortune, or answer a prayer. But I don't think my coin even hit the water...

Don't miss out on Haedong Yonggungsa. And definitely don't miss out on eating ssiat hotteok. They are fried pockets of heaven filled with cinnamon, brown sugar, and assorted nuts/seeds. But mostly heaven. You can find them at many of the vendors lined up along the pathway leading towards the temple. 

 

We went straight for Gwangali Beach our first night in Busan, and the city lights did not disappoint. The daytime view is also not too bad, and has similar offerings as Haeundae beach. I found this beach to be a little less crowded, but maybe it was because we visited on a weekday. The restaurants in this area are diverse, but many offer sashimi. We got an amazing five course meal for only around 30000 KRW ($27). Millak is apparently known to serve copious amounts of fresh fish, and is walking distance from the beach. 

Between the two beaches I visited, I enjoyed both, but maybe preferred Gwangali. There are also Songjeong and Songdo to check out as well. 

 

Shopping, Cafes, and Food

Shopping:

-There is a nice outlet mall near Haedong Yonggungsa. 

-I really like Korean cosmetics, so I went to Seomyeon metro station to shop my little heart out. The underground mall has hundreds of different shops, plus there is a LOTTE mall connected to the station if you'd prefer that. My favorite cosmetic store is "Too Cool for School". I really like the name and the brand, but the face lotion and body butter are the best! Here are some of my other favorites from different shops.

1. Too Cool For School: The small white tube is a shimmery brown liquid eyeshadow. Very nice. I'm trying out the hair oil for the first time and it smells really good. 

2. Etude House: A pore refining toner and lipstick. I love the color of the lipstick, (BR401) which is a pinkish-nude. 

3. Innisfree: Hyaluronic acid makeup wipes and red lipstick. 

4. Tony Moly: I haven't worn actual foundation in a really long time, but I use BB or CC cream instead. They are lighter on the skin, and contain other benefits such as SPF. The cute little octopus is a blackhead scrub. 

5. Skin Food: The face scrub is not too abrasive, and the cheek tint has some modest shimmer to it. Both smell very pleasant as well. 

Food:

-Busan is near the sea, so of course there is plenty of fish. Check out Millak, Gwangan, and Jagalchi night market for some sashimi! At Jagalchi there are restaurants that keep tanks of fish to slice up when you order. Can't get any fresher than that!

-Korean side dishes are plentiful, so be forewarned when ordering food. Most places give out pickled vegetables or kimchi before your main dish. 

-Be sure to drink freshly made juice from numerous juice bars located throughout the city.

-Okay, I really love sashimi, but I think my favorite meal was the fried chicken we ate in Gamcheon Culture Village. Korean fried chicken is SO GOOD. Pair it with a beer and I don't know what more you could want. 

Cafes:

-I'm always on the hunt for great local cafes in other cities. Lucky for me, there is an entire street in Busan lined with cafes. Jeonpo cafe street has plenty to offer, but we settled for a two story number called Landmark 9. The interior was beautiful and covered in windows, creating plenty of natural light to make your Instagram photos look good. I ate eggs benedict because it's my favorite brunch food, and carrot cake because I haven't eaten it in forever. I would recommend both, but the cake was a little drier than I prefer. 

 

What are you waiting for? Why not book your next trip to Busan? :) Happy traveling!